'The Real Food Guide' - The Times
The main operation here is a top-end deli/grocer designed to cater, as far as I can tell, for holidaymakers used to the range and quality of Selfridges’ food hall. It’s all very good, very posh and very expensive. The sort of place you occasionally encounter in the boondocks, when you have the feeling that hey saw you coming a mile away but you are secretly rather glad they did. If you turn right on entering the shop, through a small arch and down some steps, you emerge into a little into a folksy little low-lit restaurant of clean wooden tables and bustling staff with a blackboard pudding list that must have named 100 desserts.
Before that there was Bluebird beef (local meat braised in the great Bluebird ale of Coniston), cranberry bambi (local venison with cranberry), herby saffron cod (sounds like a very posh twenties rally driver), lamb rumpy pumpy and lots more bad puns screaming madly for attention on behalf of some good, hearty food.
On the first Wednesday of every month, Lucy holds her “Up the Duff Pudding Night”, when £20 buys you all the pudding you want: pecan and maple bread-and-butter pudding, Lancashire lemon tart, deep dish egg custard tart, nutty raspberry Pavlova and a glass of dessert wine. And, for afters, perhaps just a light enema.
Eating Out - Giles Coren
01/10/06
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